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    The wooden Pears Mill beside McCoy’s Creek in Buchanan

    Berrien County · Michigan · St. Joseph River Valley

    Buchanan

    A mill town on McCoy’s Creek that built axles for the world.

    Discover its storyThe full historyThings to seeDirectionsThe valley map

    Pears Mill, the last of the water mills on McCoy’s Creek, in 2020. Photograph by Argoods1, via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0.

    • Cityin Berrien County
    • 1833founded
    • 4,300people, 2020 census
    • 20 mifrom St. Joseph, the county seat

    Project Scroll is an independent local-history website. This is not an official page of the City of Buchanan or Berrien County, and it does not speak for them. For official business, contact the city office directly.

    The story

    Welcome to Buchanan

    Buchanan grew in the little valley of McCoy’s Creek, which drops quickly to the St. Joseph River and once turned more than a dozen mills. Its brick Front Street went up after a fire in 1862, and in the twentieth century Clark Equipment made it a factory town known far beyond Michigan. The last of the old water mills still grinds for visitors on summer Saturdays.

    Before the settlers came, Ellis (1880) writes, the banks of the St. Joseph through Buchanan were among the favorite homes of the Potawatomi, with villages at Moccasin Bluff north of the present city and at Mis-a-qua-kee in what became its east side. Most of the township was ceded in 1828, but the village site lay in a reservation ceded only in 1833. McCoy’s Creek took its name from the Rev. Isaac McCoy of the Carey Mission, who, Ellis says, preached to the Indians on a bluff near here, where they built him a wigwam.

    Charles Cowles, a Vermonter who had come to Niles in 1832, located the first claim on the village site in June 1833, built a cabin and put up a shingle mill on the creek. In 1834 John Hatfield of Wayne County, Indiana, took the next claim and with a Mr. Atkins built a sawmill, and Russell McCoy cleared ground at the mouth of the creek. The township was set off by an act approved March 11, 1837, and held its first meeting on April 3, 1837, at the house of Dr. Charles C. Wallin near the mouth of the creek; Ellis says simply that “the town derived its name from James Buchanan,” the Pennsylvania senator who later became president.

    Read the full story

    John Hamilton, a millwright, was running a flour mill on the creek when he platted the village on July 21, 1842; Andrew C. Day lived nearby and Stanley & Staples kept a store. Additions followed from 1844 on. The Michigan Central passed along the south edge of the village, and mills, wagon shops and furniture factories crowded the creek. Buchanan was incorporated as a village in 1858, with James M. Matthews as first president; Ellis counted 860 people then and about 2,300 in 1878, with three water-powered flour mills, wagon works turning out 1,500 wagons a year, bedstead and furniture factories, and the Zinc Collar Pad Company of 1870, which Coolidge (1906) calls the first of its kind in the country.

    A fire in 1862 leveled much of the business district, and merchants rebuilt in brick; the three-story Union Block, with a public hall on its top floor, went up in 1863. A flour mill built in 1857–58 on the creek later became Pears Mill. In 1891–92 a timber dam was built across the St. Joseph at Buchanan, and after 1900 Charles A. Chapin rebuilt its power house to send electricity to Buchanan, South Bend and St. Joseph. By 1906 the largest factory in town was the Buchanan Cabinet Company, and the Lee & Porter axle works and the George Rich Manufacturing Company, makers of machine-shop chucks and drills, had come.

    The Rich company, persuaded to move from Chicago in 1904, was reorganized around the metallurgist Eugene B. Clark and renamed Clark Equipment in 1916. It made axles and then forklift trucks and loaders, built housing for its workers during the First World War, and for decades was Buchanan’s great employer before moving its manufacturing south in the 1980s. Buchanan became a city in 1929. Its downtown was listed on the National Register in 2009, and the Clark administrative campus in 2023. The 2020 census counted 4,300 people.

    More on Buchanan: the full history, maps and pictures ›

    Plan a visit

    Things to see

    • Pears Mill

      Downtown Buchanan, south of Front Street between Oak and Days streets

      The flour mill of 1857 on McCoy’s Creek, the only one left of thirteen water mills on the creek, saved from demolition and restored by the volunteer Buchanan Preservation Society; open free on summer Saturday mornings.

      Directions

    • Buchanan Downtown (Michigan historical marker L2276)

      East Front Street west of Main Street, Buchanan

      State marker of 2015 telling the story of the mills, the 1862 fire, the Union Block and Clark Equipment, in the brick Italianate district listed on the National Register in 2009.

      Directions

    • Union Block

      114 E. Front Street, Buchanan

      Three-story Italianate business block of 1863 with an event hall on the third floor, built after the fire; National Register of Historic Places, 2007.

      Directions

    • Oak Ridge Cemetery

      818 Terre Coupe Road, Buchanan

      The village cemetery, listed on the National Register in 2024; Ellis describes the costly monument that the freethinking farmer Joseph Coveney put up here, carved with his opinions on religion.

      Directions

    Then and now

    Pictures

    Brick Italianate storefronts along Front Street in Buchanan
    Front Street in the Buchanan Downtown Historic District, rebuilt in brick after the fire of 1862. Photograph by JDNorry, via Wikimedia Commons. CC BY-SA 3.0.
    McCoy Creek running over stones between wooded banks in Buchanan
    McCoy’s Creek, named for the missionary Isaac McCoy, whose fall once turned more than a dozen mills. Photograph by Tim Kiser, via Wikimedia Commons. CC BY-SA 3.0.

    Come and see

    Through the year

    • Thistledown & Row, 103 Days Ave., Buchanan, MI 49107. Modern American food with house-made ciders, meads and Michigan wines in a restored brick building downtown.

    Read more

    Stories on Project Scroll

    Quick facts

    At a glance

    Founded
    Charles Cowles’s claim and shingle mill on McCoy’s Creek, 1833; village platted by John Hamilton, July 21, 1842
    Named for
    James Buchanan of Pennsylvania, later the fifteenth president (the township, 1837, and then the village)
    Incorporated
    Village 1858; city 1929
    Railroad
    Michigan Central, along the south edge of the village
    Industry
    Water mills on McCoy’s Creek; wagons, furniture and zinc collar pads; Clark Equipment from 1904 (named 1916)
    Township
    Buchanan Township
    Population
    2020 census: 4,300

    Know a story about Buchanan?

    Old photographs, letters, a school picture, a story your grandparents told: if it belongs to Buchanan, we would love to see it. A phone photo of the front and back is enough, and we credit you by name if you like.

    Send it to us Contact page

    Keep exploring

    Nearby in the valley

    For researchers: records and sources

    Where the records are

    Berrien County’s older vital records are kept by the County Records Department at 2100 E. Empire Avenue, Benton Township: births and deaths from 1867, marriages from 1831; deeds and plats are with the county register of deeds. City records are with the Buchanan city clerk and township records with the Buchanan Township clerk. The Buchanan District Library, 128 E. Front Street, has put online nearly every issue it holds of the Berrien County Record and the Buchanan Record, 1868 to 1998. The History Center at Courthouse Square, 313 N. Cass Street, Berrien Springs, keeps the county’s research library. Buchanan is covered in Ellis, History of Berrien and Van Buren Counties (1880), ch. XXVI, pp. 174–187, and Coolidge, A Twentieth Century History of Berrien County (1906), ch. XIII, pp. 213–220.

    Sources

    • Franklin Ellis, History of Berrien and Van Buren Counties, Michigan (Philadelphia: D. W. Ensign & Co., 1880), ch. XXVI, ‘Buchanan Township,’ pp. 174–187: Indian villages and the cessions of 1828 and 1833, p. 174; Charles Cowles, John Hatfield and Russell McCoy, p. 175; organization of the township and the name, p. 177; the village, its plat of 1842, McCoy’s Creek, incorporation in 1858 and population, p. 180; manufactures and the zinc collar pad company, p. 181; Joseph Coveney and Oak Ridge Cemetery, p. 180. link
    • Orville W. Coolidge, A Twentieth Century History of Berrien County, Michigan (Chicago: Lewis Publishing Co., 1906), ch. XIII, ‘Buchanan Township,’ pp. 213–220: Moccasin and Mishaquaka villages and Cowles, p. 213; the plat of 1842 and incorporation, p. 215; Bainton’s mills and the zinc collar pad factory, p. 217; the dam and power plant, the Buchanan Cabinet Company, Lee & Porter and the George Rich Manufacturing Company, p. 219. link
    • Michigan Historical Commission, ‘Buchanan Downtown,’ marker L2276 (2015); Historical Marker Database entry 155293. link
    • City of Buchanan, ‘Pears Mill’ (built 1857; one of 13 mills on McCoy Creek; Buchanan Preservation Society; hours). link
    • ‘Clark Equipment Company Administrative Complex,’ Wikipedia (George R. Rich Manufacturing Co. to Buchanan 1904; Celfor Tool Co.; Clark Equipment 1916; NRHP 2023). link
    • ‘National Register of Historic Places listings in Berrien County, Michigan,’ Wikipedia (Buchanan Downtown Historic District 2009; Union Block 2007; Oak Ridge Cemetery 2024; Clark complex 2023). link
    • Michigan Railroads, ‘Station: Buchanan, MI’ (settled 1833 as McCoy’s Creek; village 1858; city 1929). link
    • Buchanan District Library, Historical Newspaper Collection (Berrien County Record and Buchanan Record, 1868–1998). link
    • ‘Buchanan, Michigan,’ Wikipedia (coordinates; Buchanan Township; 2020 census population 4,300). link
    • U.S. Census Bureau, 2020 Census Redistricting Data (P.L. 94-171), table P1, Buchanan city, Berrien County, Michigan: 4,300. link

    Dates and names are from the county histories and official sources listed here. Where they disagree, we say so. Know better? Send a correction.