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    Coldwater Lake, Coldwater, Michigan

    Branch County · Michigan · St. Joseph River Valley

    Coldwater

    The cold-spring prairie on the Chicago road that won the county seat.

    Discover its storyThings to seeDirectionsThe valley map

    Coldwater Lake, Coldwater, Michigan, 1912. Tinder Collection, Clements Library, University of Michigan.

    • Cityin Branch County
    • 1832founded
    • 13,822people, 2020 census

    Project Scroll is an independent local-history website. This is not an official page of the City of Coldwater or Branch County, and it does not speak for them. For official business, contact the city office directly.

    The story

    Welcome to Coldwater

    Coldwater began in 1830 with Hugh Campbell’s log house beside the Chicago road and was laid out in 1832 under the name Lyons. It took the county seat from the village of Branch, became a city in 1861, and was home to Michigan’s State Public School for dependent children.

    The Chicago road, the 1879 county history says, was at first simply the Indian trail, marked out in 1829 and not worked until 1832, and it ran through what became the north side of the city. In 1830 Hugh Campbell put up a log house on Chicago Street, on ground later covered by the Lewis Art Gallery; the Cross brothers, Lemuel Bingham, Abram F. Bolton and others entered land close by. The name comes from the Potawatomi word for the place, given on the 1961 city marker as ‘Chuck-sew-ya-bish,’ cold spring water: the 1879 history says that cold springs bubbled up in the bed of the little river through the west part of the town.

    In the spring of 1832 Allen Tibbits and Joseph Hanchett laid out the village, surveyed by James B. Tompkins, and called it Lyons after Tibbits’ native town in New York; the name was soon changed to Coldwater, and the post office of that name was moved there, leaving the first Coldwater settlement on the river to be absorbed. Tibbits, a Methodist preacher, gave the first sermon in his log house in July 1831, and the first Methodist society in the county was organized there on June 19, 1832. Cynthia Gloyd opened a school of nine pupils in a cabin in July 1832, Peter Martin built a sawmill the same year, and in 1833 a post office was opened with Silas A. Holbrook as postmaster.

    Read the full story

    The county seat had first gone to Masonville and then to Branch, chosen by a governor’s commission as the center of the county. Coldwater won it in the end, and the 1879 history says the contest was not settled until a legislative decree of 1842. A colony from the East in 1835, the Crippens, Fisks, Haineses and others, gave the place a new start. When fever and chills ran high in the 1830s, the townspeople blamed a mill-dam south of the village, marched on it in a body one morning and tore it down, throwing in the protesting proprietor, Mr. Frink. The village was incorporated in 1837.

    The Michigan Southern Railroad was finished through the village about 1850–51, after a riot by unpaid track laborers that the marshal, Roland Root, managed to quiet. Fires in 1850 and 1851 burned much of Chicago Street, and the business blocks were rebuilt at once. In 1861 the legislature gave Coldwater a city charter; Albert Chandler was the first mayor. The State Public School, authorized in 1871 for dependent and neglected children, opened in Coldwater on May 21, 1874, with the children living in family-like cottages until homes could be found for them.

    B. S. Tibbits built the opera house on South Hanchett Street, which opened on September 21, 1882, with ‘The Maid of Arran.’ The city voted for water works on April 8, 1890, and installed its own electric lighting plant in 1891, and about 1900 Chicago Street was paved with brick from the public square to Jackson Street. The 2020 census counted 13,822 people in Coldwater.

    Plan a visit

    Things to see

    • Tibbits Opera House

      14 S. Hanchett St., Coldwater

      Theater built by B. S. Tibbits and opened September 21, 1882; a Michigan State Historic Site (1970) and listed on the National Register in 2019.

      Directions

    • Wing House

      27 S. Jefferson St., Coldwater

      House museum of the Branch County Historical Society, listed on the National Register in 1975.

      Directions

    • East Chicago Street Historic District

      E. Chicago St. between Wright and Division streets, Coldwater

      Chicago Street from Wright Street to Division Street, with the four parks at Division; listed on the National Register in 1975.

      Directions

    • State Public School at Coldwater marker

      Marshall Rd. at First St., Coldwater

      Michigan Historical Marker (1981) for the state school for dependent children that opened here on May 21, 1874.

      Directions

    • City of Coldwater marker

      E. Chicago St. (U.S. 12) at Marshall St., Coldwater

      Kiwanis Club marker of 1961 for the city’s centennial, near the site of Hugh Campbell’s first house.

      Directions

    Then and now

    Pictures

    Old photograph of a weathered two-story frame house with a lean-to, its clapboards worn, a church spire behind it.
    The house William McCarty, the county’s first sheriff, used as home and jail in 1833; by 1905 the oldest building in Coldwater and part of a barn. Photograph from Henry P. Collin, ed., A Twentieth Century History and Biographical Record of Branch County, Michigan (New York and Chicago: Lewis Publishing Co., 1906), via the Internet Archive. Public domain.
    Old photograph of a plain brick church with a square bell tower and belfry over the gable front.
    The old Methodist church at Coldwater, built 1836–38, from the 1906 county history. Photograph from Henry P. Collin, ed., A Twentieth Century History and Biographical Record of Branch County, Michigan (New York and Chicago: Lewis Publishing Co., 1906), via the Internet Archive. Public domain.
    Parade in Coldwater in 1916
    Parade in Coldwater in 1916, 1916. Tinder Collection, Clements Library, University of Michigan.
    Greetings from Coldwater, Mich. Chicago Avenue (panoramic card)
    Greetings from Coldwater, Mich. Chicago Avenue (panoramic card), 1908. Library of Congress, Prints & Photographs Division.

    Come and see

    Through the year

    Read more

    Stories on Project Scroll

    Quick facts

    At a glance

    First house
    Hugh Campbell, 1830
    Earlier name
    Lyons
    Platted
    Spring 1832, by Allen Tibbits and Joseph Hanchett
    Named for
    The cold springs in the river, from the Potawatomi name for the place
    Incorporated
    Village, 1837; city, February 28, 1861
    County seat
    Fixed at Coldwater in 1842
    Railroad
    Michigan Southern, 1850–51
    Population
    2020 census: 13,822

    Know a story about Coldwater?

    Old photographs, letters, a school picture, a story your grandparents told: if it belongs to Coldwater, we would love to see it. A phone photo of the front and back is enough, and we credit you by name if you like.

    Send it to us Contact page

    Keep exploring

    Nearby in the valley

    For researchers: records and sources

    Where the records are

    Branch County’s deeds, probate files and court records are kept by the county offices in Coldwater, the county seat; the county courthouse informational site is at 31 Division St., Coldwater. The Branch County Historical Society keeps the Wing House museum, 27 S. Jefferson St., Coldwater. The city is covered in Johnson, History of Branch County (1879), ‘City of Coldwater,’ pp. 113–118, and in Collin, History of Branch County (1906), ch. XIII, pp. 93–97.

    Sources

    • Crisfield Johnson, History of Branch County, Michigan, with Illustrations and Biographical Sketches of Some of Its Prominent Men and Pioneers (Philadelphia: Everts & Abbott, 1879), ch. VIII, p. 40 (county named for John Branch); p. 46 (Lyons laid out, spring 1832); p. 47 (act organizing the county, approved Feb. 1, 1833); ‘City of Coldwater,’ pp. 113–118 (name, Chicago road and Campbell, p. 113; plat, school, mill and post office, p. 114; colony of 1835, mill-dam and incorporation, p. 115; court-house, railroad and fires, p. 116; city charter, p. 117); Methodist society, p. 118. link
    • Henry P. Collin, ed., A Twentieth Century History and Biographical Record of Branch County, Michigan (New York and Chicago: Lewis Publishing Co., 1906), ch. XIII, ‘The City of Coldwater,’ pp. 93–97 (incorporations, court-house of 1848, railroad, first mayor, water works, lighting, Tibbits Opera House). link
    • Coldwater Kiwanis Club, ‘The City of Coldwater, 1861–1961’ marker (L19); transcription at the Historical Marker Database, entry 65858. link
    • Michigan History, ‘State Public School at Coldwater / Coldwater Regional Center’ marker (S530B, 1981); transcription at the Historical Marker Database, entry 68976. link
    • ‘List of Michigan State Historic Sites in Branch County,’ Wikipedia (state historic sites, addresses and listing dates). link
    • ‘National Register of Historic Places listings in Branch County, Michigan,’ Wikipedia (listings, addresses and dates). link
    • ‘Coldwater, Michigan,’ Wikipedia (coordinates; council–manager government; 2020 census population 13,822). link

    Dates and names are from the county histories and official sources listed here. Where they disagree, we say so. Know better? Send a correction.